Following in Legionary Footsteps: Rome's Hidden History, Rooftop Views, and Where to Stay
So you’re heading to the Eternal City and want something beyond the typical tourist experience? While you can’t (and shouldn’t) skip the Colosseum, there’s a whole world of lesser-known historical sites that tell the tale of Rome’s mighty legionaries. Plus, after a day of marching in ancient footsteps, you’ll need a perfect rooftop bar to rest those weary feet – preferably with a spritz in hand and a view that would make Caesar himself jealous.
Walking in Legionary Boots: Rome’s Military Legacy
Before your trip, consider brushing up on your Roman military history with SPQR: A History of Ancient Rome. Mary Beard’s bestselling account brings legionary life vividly to mind as you walk these ancient paths.
When following in legionary footsteps, proper footwear is essential. While Roman soldiers marched in caligae (military sandals), I recommend comfortable walking shoes designed for uneven surfaces. Your feet will thank you after a day on Rome’s ancient cobblestones.
The Colosseum: Where Glory and Blood Mixed
Let’s start with the one major attraction you simply can’t miss. The Colosseum wasn’t just a place for gladiator battles – it was a demonstration of military might, built between 70-80 CE using spoils from the Jewish War. A Roman legionary visiting the capital would have certainly attended games here, perhaps even participating in the military parades that sometimes preceded the main events.
Practical info: The Colosseo metro station (Line B) drops you right there. Entrance fee is around €16-18, but skip the line by buying tickets online. Your legionary ancestors didn’t have the internet – use your advantage!
Beyond the Obvious: Lesser-Known Military Sites
For a deeper dive into these lesser-known military sites, I highly recommend bringing along a detailed guidebook like the Rick Steves Rome travel guide. Its maps of the ancient city make following in legionary footsteps much easier, especially when exploring off-the-beaten-path sites like Castra Praetoria.
The Roman sun can be intense, especially when exploring exposed ruins with little shade. Pack a packable sun hat that won’t take up much suitcase space but will provide crucial protection when you’re standing where legionaries once trained.
Castra Praetoria: The Emperor’s Bodyguards
Most tourists have no idea that remains of the barracks of the Praetorian Guard – the emperor’s elite forces – still exist in Rome. Built by Tiberius in 23 CE, these walls housed the most feared military unit in the empire. While much is incorporated into later structures, you can still see segments of the original walls near Porta Pia.
Practical info: The Castro Pretorio metro station is literally named after this camp – that’s how important it was! You can see parts of the walls from the street, though access inside is limited.
Porta San Sebastiano & Museum of the Walls
The largest and best-preserved gate in Rome’s Aurelian Walls now houses a fascinating museum about the city’s defensive systems. What makes this special for military history buffs? You can actually walk on top of the ancient walls, following in the footsteps of sentries who once protected Rome from invasion.
Practical info: Take bus 118 from Circus Maximus to reach it. The museum is small but allows you to climb up onto the actual walls for panoramic views that defending soldiers would have enjoyed (minus the stress of spotting barbarian invaders).
Pyramid of Cestius: Egypt in Rome
This 36-meter-high pyramid might seem out of place, but it symbolizes Rome’s conquest of Egypt and was later incorporated into the defensive Aurelian Walls. Built during Augustus’ reign for magistrate Gaius Cestius, it’s a reminder of how far Rome’s military reach extended.
Practical info: The Piramide metro station is named after it – you can’t miss it! While interior visits are limited to special days, the exterior is impressive enough.
Trajan’s Markets: Shopping Complex with Military Ties
Often called the world’s first shopping mall, this multi-level complex was built as part of Trajan’s massive building project funded by Dacian War spoils. Beyond just shopping, it housed administrative offices that managed military campaigns. Today it’s home to the Museum of Imperial Forums.
Practical info: Located just off Via dei Fori Imperiali, it’s an easy walk from either Cavour or Colosseo metro stations. The museum offers insights into how Rome’s military conquests funded its architectural marvels.
Ara Pacis: The Altar of Peace Through Military Strength
This altar commissioned by Emperor Augustus celebrates the peace achieved through military conquest – a very Roman concept. The detailed marble reliefs include military processions and Rome’s founding mythology, housed in a modern museum designed by architect Richard Meier.
Practical info: Located near the Mausoleum of Augustus, it’s about a 10-minute walk from Spagna metro station. The entrance fee is around €10-12.
Where to Rest Your Soldier’s Head: Accommodation for Every Budget
Budget Barracks (€25-120 per night)
The Yellow (Square)
Located near Termini Station in a 19th-century building, this social hostel offers dorm beds from €25-50 and private rooms from €70-90. It’s a 5-minute walk to Castro Pretorio metro station and a short walk to the Diocletian Baths ruins – perfect for history buffs who don’t mind sacrificing luxury for location and price.
Roman connection: Start your day with a quick visit to nearby Diocletian’s Baths, once the largest bath complex in ancient Rome.
Hotel Centro Cavour
Positioned perfectly in the Monti neighborhood, this budget-friendly option (€60-100 per night) puts you on Via Cavour, the street leading directly to the Roman Forum. You’re also near the ancient Subura district, once a working-class area where off-duty soldiers might have found entertainment.
Roman connection: You’re staying in what was ancient Rome’s original red-light district – though today it’s one of the city’s trendiest neighborhoods.
Hotel Paba
This family-run hotel on Via Cavour offers comfortable rooms from €70-120 per night and puts you within easy walking distance of both the Colosseum and Imperial Forums. The building was once a noble residence, adding a touch of history to your stay.
Roman connection: You’re sleeping between the Colosseum and Forum – essentially in the heart of ancient Rome’s military and political center.
Mid-Range Accommodations (€120-250 per night)
Hotel Forum
As the name suggests, this hotel directly overlooks the Roman Forum with rooms from €120-220 per night. The rooftop restaurant offers spectacular views over Caesar’s old stomping grounds while you enjoy your morning cappuccino or evening aperitivo.
Roman connection: The panoramic terrace gives you the same view that emperors would have enjoyed from their palaces on the Palatine Hill.
Dharma Boutique Hotel & Spa
Located in the Repubblica area near Termini Station (€130-220 per night), this stylish hotel puts you close to the National Roman Museum and Diocletian’s Baths – both housing impressive collections of military artifacts.
Roman connection: You’re steps away from where Diocletian’s massive bath complex once stood – a testament to imperial engineering.
Hotel Capo d’Africa
On a quiet street near the Colosseum (€150-250 per night), this elegant hotel features a rooftop terrace with views of ancient Rome’s most iconic structure. The street name itself – “Head of Africa” – refers to the ancient district where goods from conquered African territories were sold.
Roman connection: You’re staying in a neighborhood historically connected to Rome’s African trade routes, with the Colosseum looming at the end of the road.
Luxury Quarters (€300-1,200+ per night)
Palazzo Manfredi
For the ultimate splurge (€350-800+ per night), this luxury hotel directly faces the Colosseum and is built on the site of the ancient Ludus Magnus – the main gladiatorial training school. The Michelin-starred rooftop restaurant Aroma offers dining with an unparalleled view of the Colosseum.
Roman connection: You’re literally sleeping above where gladiators once trained for combat in the arena you can see from your window.
Hotel Raphael
Just off Piazza Navona (€300-600+ per night), this ivy-covered boutique hotel houses a collection of ancient Roman artifacts alongside Picasso ceramics. The rooftop terrace restaurant Mater Terrae offers 360° views of the historic center.
Roman connection: The luxurious interior features actual ancient Roman artifacts, bringing history right into the hotel.
Hotel de Russie
Near the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo (€500-1,200+ per night), this five-star hotel has historically been a favorite of artists and writers. It’s positioned near the ancient northern entrance to Rome, where many military processions would have entered the city.
Roman connection: You’re near the ancient northern gate of Rome, where triumphant legions would have marched down what is now Via del Corso.
Rooftop Revelry: Where to Drink with Views That Caesar Would Envy
Rome from above is a special experience, and these rooftop bars combine spectacular panoramas with historical connections. These rooftop views are incredibly Instagram-worthy, so make sure your phone never dies by carrying a portable power bank. The sunset over the Colosseum from Aroma’s terrace is a shot you definitely don’t want to miss due to a dead battery.
Aroma at Palazzo Manfredi
With a direct Colosseum view that will make your Instagram followers weep with envy, this Michelin-starred restaurant and bar sits atop Palazzo Manfredi. You’re looking directly over the ruins of the Ludus Magnus while sipping your Aperol Spritz.
Historical connection: You’re enjoying modern luxuries while overlooking where gladiators once trained for mortal combat.
Practical tip: This is definitely a “dress to impress” spot with prices to match (€€€€). Reservations essential.
Terrazza Borromini
Perched atop the 17th-century Palazzo Pamphilj on Piazza Navona, this rooftop offers breathtaking views of the historic center’s domes and rooftops. The building was designed by Borromini, the great rival of Bernini, and ironically overlooks Bernini’s Four Rivers fountain below. The church Borromini designed (Sant’Agnese) is part of the Palazzo Pamphilj complex.
Historical connection: You’re at the architectural intersection of Rome’s greatest Baroque rivals, with churches and palaces designed by both spreading out before you.
Practical tip: Smart casual dress code, prices are high but not astronomical (€€€). Reserve ahead, especially for sunset hours.
Les Etoiles at Hotel Atlante Star
Offering one of the best views of St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican, this rooftop becomes magical at sunset when the dome is illuminated. Your view encompasses Castel Sant’Angelo and the escape route many popes used during times of danger.
Historical connection: You can trace the papal escape route (now called the Passetto di Borgo) from the Vatican to Castel Sant’Angelo while enjoying your cocktail.
Practical tip: Reserve ahead and specify that you want a table with a Vatican view (€€€).
Cielo Terrace at Hotel de la Ville
Positioned at the top of the Spanish Steps, this elegant rooftop offers views over Villa Borghese and Rome’s sea of terracotta rooftops. It’s considered by many to offer the best sunset view in Rome.
Historical connection: You’re overlooking the city in the direction that many northern invasions came from, While most of the ancient walls are no longer visible from here, you’re gazing in the direction from which ancient invaders would have approached Rome.
Practical tip: Dress elegantly and be prepared for high prices (€€€€). The cocktails are expertly crafted and worth the splurge.
The Court at Palazzo Manfredi
A more casual alternative to Aroma (though still not cheap), this cocktail bar offers the same stunning Colosseum views with innovative drinks inspired by Rome’s history. Try their “Gladiator” cocktail while gazing at the arena.
Historical connection: Each specialty cocktail tells a story related to Rome’s history, from emperors to gladiators.
Practical tip: Smart casual dress code, prices are high (€€€€). Sunset reservations are highly recommended.
Hi-Res at Hotel Valadier
Near Piazza del Popolo, this rooftop offers romantic vibes with views of Rome’s historic center. You can see church domes in all directions while enjoying well-crafted cocktails.
Historical connection: You’re near Piazza del Popolo, the ancient northern entrance to Rome where legionaries would have begun their march down Via del Corso.
Practical tip: Smart casual dress, prices are high but standard for rooftop bars (€€€). The atmosphere is more relaxed than some of the fancier options.
Practical Tips for Modern Invaders
- When to Visit: Spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) offer the best combination of pleasant weather and manageable crowds. August sees many Romans fleeing the city for vacation.
- Getting Around: Rome has three metro lines: A (orange), B (blue), and C (green). A single ticket (€1.50) is valid for 100 minutes on all public transport. Consider 24-hour (€7), 48-hour (€12.50), or 72-hour (€18) tickets if you’re exploring extensively.
- Water: Those ancient aqueducts still work! Rome’s public fountains (nasoni) provide free, cold drinking water. Bring a collapsible water bottle to stay hydrated like a legionary on the march without weighing down your daypack when empty.
- Timing is Everything: For the Colosseum, go early (opening time) or late (last entry). For rooftop bars, sunset reservations are gold – book well in advance.
- Safety First: While much safer than in ancient times when pickpockets could face severe punishment, Rome’s crowded tourist areas still require vigilance. An anti-theft crossbody bag keeps your valuables secure while leaving hands free for taking photos or enjoying an Aperol Spritz.
- Dress Code: Rooftop bars generally require smart casual attire at minimum. For some luxury options, smart elegant is expected. No shorts or flip-flops at the nicer spots.
Final Thoughts
Rome’s military history is written into its very stones – from the mighty Colosseum to the hidden remains of barracks and fortifications. By staying in hotels with historical connections and enjoying views from strategic high points around the city, you’ll experience the Eternal City as more than just a tourist destination – you’ll connect with the legionaries who helped build an empire.
Whether you’re bunking down in budget accommodations or splurging on a room with a Colosseum view, drinking wine where soldiers once stood guard, or walking walls that protected the heart of an empire, Rome rewards those who look beyond the obvious attractions.
As the ancient Romans would say: “Carpe diem” – seize the day! And maybe also seize a cocktail on a rooftop while you’re at it.
Buon viaggio!
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